Calvin Klein, Winter 2025 – Veronica Leoni debuts as the first woman in the brand's creative direction
Veronica Leoni's debut at the helm of Calvin Klein Collection was one of the most anticipated moments of NYFW. As the first woman to assume the brand's creative direction since its founding in 1968, Leoni brings a refined approach to the sexy and sophisticated minimalism that has always been the label's essence. Her Winter 2025 collection revisits Calvin Klein's effortless aesthetic, reviving iconic pieces such as ribbed tank tops worn braless, impeccably fitted jeans, and precise tailoring, all with a contemporary touch.
A new approach to iconic minimalism
Veronica Leoni, who has worked at brands such as Jil Sander, Céline, Moncler, and The Row, brings her powerful and feminine vision of fashion to the collection. In her debut, the designer presented a balanced mix of sophistication and sensuality, exploring both body-hugging cuts and striking volumes. Highlights included oversized coats, trench coats with attached capes, and sweaters that define the silhouette.
The influence of her previous experiences is evident, particularly in how she balances structure and fluidity. The precise tailoring recalls Jil Sander's rigor, while the draped dresses and sensual slip dresses evoke the studied femininity of Phoebe Philo's era at Céline. But there is also a unique freshness, which Leoni calls "sexitude"—a fusion of sensuality and attitude.
A tribute to Calvin Klein's codes
In addition to refined tailoring and sophisticated casual pieces, the designer reinterprets iconic elements of Calvin Klein. The CK One perfume bottle, one of the brand's biggest commercial successes, is transformed into a charming little bag. Square-toe ballet flats, originally created by Calvin Klein himself in 1999, are reimagined and updated for the present day.
The brand's founder, Calvin Klein, attended the show in a rare public appearance, reinforcing the symbolic weight of this new phase for the label. While the minimalist essence remains, Leoni's approach brings a more feminine and strategic perspective. Her creations not only dress the body but also engage with its needs and desires, balancing protection and seduction in just the right measure.
With this promising debut, Calvin Klein Collection enters a new chapter, maintaining its identity while adapting to the demands of contemporary fashion.