Comme des Garçons winter 2025: Rei Kawakubo challenges excess with conceptual minimalism

At Paris Fashion Week, Rei Kawakubo presented a collection that questions the excessive grandeur of fashion and the world. With deconstructed silhouettes and a reflective approach, Comme des Garçons reaffirms its position as one of the most avant-garde brands in the industry.

The small can be powerful

Amid a global landscape marked by excess and megalomania, Kawakubo opposes the idea of "big for the sake of being big." According to Adrian Joffe, CEO of Comme des Garçons, the designer is tired of the culture of gigantism, and her collection is a direct response to this context. The show's soundtrack, featuring chants by Bulgarian women and children, evoked simplicity and the strength of collectivity, reinforcing the critique of global structures dominating the individual.

Deconstructed tailoring

The first looks featured classic tailoring references, but with cuts and volumes that defy any traditional notion. Pinstripe suits seemed to dissolve with wavy strips, while dresses were constructed from multiple folded blazers, creating sculptural and unexpected shapes.

Colors, textures, and new narratives

The collection evolved into a vibrant play of colors and prints, including shades of red, wine, pink, and purple, as well as florals and checks. Satin fabrics and transparencies added layers of complexity to the pieces, always maintaining the brand's experimental DNA. More than just clothing, Comme des Garçons presented wearable art, challenging conventions and expanding the boundaries of fashion.

A trend of experimentation

The search for new formats was not exclusive to Kawakubo this season. Paris Fashion Week has become the stage for a bolder movement, where even mainstream brands like Givenchy, Schiaparelli, and Dior flirt with experimentation. However, few manage to do so with the depth and coherence of Comme des Garçons.

Once again, Rei Kawakubo proves that fashion can – and should – be a vehicle to question the world and provoke change, going beyond aesthetics and entering the realm of critical thinking.