Dior haute couture summer 2025: A modern fairy tale in the gardens of the Rodin Museum
Dior presented its haute couture collection for Summer 2025 on Monday (27/01), in the gardens of the Rodin Museum in Paris. The setting featured panels with fantastic illustrations by Indian visual artist Rithika Merchant, transporting the audience to an enchanted world that combined fashion, art, and nature. Under the creative direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri, the collection reinterpreted the classic Alice in Wonderland (1865) by Lewis Carroll, aiming to revive the sense of "childlike wonder," as explained by the designer in a video shared on the brand's social media.
On the runway, Maria Grazia Chiuri's vision translated into mini dresses with cinched waists, crinolines on display, and an abundance of romantic and ultra-feminine details. There, the audience found bows, tulles, lace, and feathers made of organza, as well as architectural volumes resembling petals and English embroidery representing flowers, butterflies, and bees. Elements such as balloon skirts, puffed shoulders, and short petticoats with glitter and ruffles added a touch of delicacy to the collection, while also suggesting an ethereal fragility.
Artistic and surrealist references
This fragility, in fact, was accentuated by references to the surrealist work Eine Kleine Nachtmusik (1943), by American artist Dorothea Tanning. The painting, often associated with the world of Alice, depicts two girls in a corridor with a giant sunflower, wearing skirts that are falling apart. This imagery was translated into Dior's looks, with lace and strips of fabric falling like suspended plants, creating a visual narrative rich in poetry.
The punk touch and the connection with Dior's history
Despite the fairy tale atmosphere, there was room for a subtle punk touch. This appeared in the predominantly black color palette, the mohawk made of mini flowers, and the body-hugging tailoring, such as the overcoats. Maria Grazia also engaged with the history of the Dior Maison, revisiting two iconic silhouettes: the Cigale, created by Christian Dior in the early 1950s, and the Trapeze line, designed by Yves Saint Laurent at the end of the same decade. From the Cigale came the cinched waists with structured volume in the skirts, while the Trapeze inspired geometric capes that moved away from the body, creating a dialogue between the past and the present.
Between princesses and heroines
In Maria Grazia Chiuri's narrative, which has previously brought witches and fencers to the runway, this time the image presented was more that of a princess waiting for her prince charming than an Alice on a psychedelic journey through Wonderland. However, the collection manages to balance these extremes, offering a haute couture vision that celebrates tradition and innovation with grace and sophistication.
This blend of fantasy and reality reaffirms Dior's ability to create a unique world in its collections, where fashion is much more than clothing: it is narrative, art, and emotion.