Winter 2025 in men's fashion: What to expect from the runways
Men's Fashion Weeks are key events in the global fashion calendar, serving as a thermometer for the trends that will dominate the upcoming seasons. During these events, designers and brands reveal their collections, anticipating what will be in store windows and, consequently, in the wardrobes of men around the world. The marathon of international winter 2025 shows begins next Friday, January 17, with the renowned Milan and Paris Men's Fashion Weeks.
In Milan, the calendar is more streamlined, with notable absences and few debuts, reflecting a more intimate season. In Paris, the schedule is slightly more intense, with some important comebacks and a debut show eagerly awaited.
This reduction in the lineup is a reflection of the challenges faced by the luxury market in recent years. The sector has shown growth well below expectations, with only 2% growth for 2024, and the forecast for 2025 points to a similar pace. The high cost of organizing a fashion show has led some brands to adopt more austere measures, either optimizing their expenses or even cutting participation in major events altogether.
The Milan Men's Fashion Week, which takes place from January 17 to 20, will see the absence of several renowned brands, such as Dsquared2, Etro, Fendi, Gucci, JW Anderson, MSGM, and Moschino. The first four have opted to present their winter 2025 collections in combined (men's and women's) shows, which will take place in February.
Fendi, for example, will mark its presentation next month with a special event to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Roman brand. This show will also be Silvia Venturini Fendi's debut as creative director for the women's collection, an area she had not previously led.
Gucci, on the other hand, justified merging the men's and women's collections into one show as part of the strategy of its new creative director, Sabato De Sarno, to consolidate his creative vision. Moschino chose to present its men's collection alongside the resort 2025 collection, while MSGM decided to make its presence felt differently, with a party instead of a traditional runway show.
On the other hand, the new generation of designers stands out with some promising debuts. The French Pierre-Louis Mascia, who had previously shown during the women's season and appeared at the June 2024 edition of Pitti Uomo in Florence, and the British Saul Nash, are two of the big bets this season. Additionally, the presentations of Domenico Formichetti with his PDF and the Chinese brand Pronounce are expected to bring new perspectives and energize Milan's Men's Fashion Week.
The Paris Men's Fashion Week will take place from January 21 to 26, and it promises to shake up the fashion calendar with some debuts and major comebacks. The most anticipated event in the French capital is the debut of Peter Copping as creative director of Lanvin. The designer, with an impressive resume that includes stints at Balenciaga under Demna, Nina Ricci, and Oscar de la Renta, as well as his collaboration with Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, will make his debut at the closing of the fashion week on Sunday, January 26. Another arrival that promises to bring new energy to men's fashion is Willy Chavarria, one of the brightest names in contemporary American fashion.
Additionally, London-based S.S Daley, winner of the LVMH Prize in 2022 and a favorite of celebrities like Harry Styles, and Issey Miyake's IM Men line will also make their debuts on the Parisian runway, bringing new perspectives and a fresh energy to the event. The return of Jacquemus, who hasn't participated in Fashion Week since 2019, is another eagerly awaited moment, along with the return of Paul Smith, who took a season off after his Pitti Uomo presentation.
However, some significant absences also mark this year's schedule. Loewe, Wales Bonner, and Dries Van Noten will not be physically present, with Dries Van Noten's collection, already signed by new creative director Julian Klausner, being presented in a lookbook. Givenchy, which awaits the debut of Sarah Burton, has postponed its presentation to March, and Valentino, under the direction of Alessandro Michele, will showcase both its men's and women's collections together in a unique event later on.
CALENDAR
Milan men's fashion week, winter 2025
Friday, 17.01
12:00 PM – Pierre-Louis Mascia
4:00 PM – PDF
5:00 PM – Philipp Plein
Saturday, 18.01
07:00 AM – Pronounce
08:30 AM – Dolce & Gabbana
03:00 PM – Emporio Armani
Sunday, 19.01
08:00 AM – Magliano
10:00 AM – Prada
12:00 PM – Saul Nash
Monday, 20.01
07:00 AM – Giorgio Armani
11:00 AM – Zegna
Paris Men's Fashion Week, Winter 2025
Tuesday, 21.01
2:30 PM – Louis Vuitton
Wednesday, 22.01
06:00 AM – S.S Daley
Thursday, 23.01
07:00 AM – IM Men/Issey Miyake
08:30 AM – Rick Owens
1:30 PM – Yohji Yamamoto
Friday, 24.01
06:00 AM – Junya Watanabe
10:30 AM – Dior Men
1:00 PM – Comme des Garçons Homme Plus
2:00 PM – Willy Chavarria
4:30 PM – Kenzo
Saturday, 25.01
06:30 AM – Kiko Kostadinov
11:00 AM – Hermès
Sunday, 26.01
07:00 AM – Sacai
10:00 AM – Jacquemus
4:00 PM – Lanvin