Jacquemus: The return to the Paris Fashion Week calendar with elegance and significance.
This Sunday (26), Jacquemus marked its grand return to the Paris Fashion Week calendar after five years of independent shows. The presentation, held in the French capital, was a breathtaking event, featuring a star-studded cast and an audience made up of major figures from fashion, entertainment, and the arts.
La Croisière: The new collection
With its new collection, titled La Croisière, Jacquemus brought forth a sophisticated spirit, inspired by luxury travels from times past. The show, which opened with model Angelina Kendall, had a more elegant and serene atmosphere, with the models walking calmly and confidently. Adriana Lima was one of the big surprises of the night, walking the runway in a minimalist black dress and almost imperceptible makeup. Doutzen Kroes, Irina Shayk, Liya Kebede, Eva Herzigova, and 56-year-old Christy Turlington also dazzled on the runway, alongside new generation names like Alex Consani, Mona Tougaard, Grace Elizabeth, and Imaan Hammam.
The star-studded audience
In the audience, celebrities such as singer Tyla, the iconic Vogue editor Anna Wintour, actor Nicolas Chaves, actress Pamela Anderson, and supermodel Carla Bruni were among the few privileged to watch the live presentation. This private show, with only 50 guests, took place at the historic apartment of Auguste Perret, a landmark of 1930s modernist architecture. The general public had access to the event through a video released six hours later.
The focus on the silhouette
Jacquemus explained on his social media that this collection aimed to strip away artifices and focus on the silhouette. The presentation set aside the grandiose sets and theatrical elements from previous seasons, such as the Capri landscape or the raffia rain, to exclusively highlight the clothing. And what clothing! The collection blended geometric and classic elements with retro inspirations. Sensual dresses, with cuts revealing the back and curves, shared space with more structured pieces, such as oval-shaped pants, rounded jackets, and trapeze-shaped skirts. Waist-hugging looks with leather corsets referenced fashion from the 1940s and 1950s, while opera gloves, ostrich feathers, polka dots, and kitten heels created an atmosphere of old-time Hollywood glamour.
Inspiration and ambition
Tailoring was also a strong point, with double-breasted blazers, nautical-inspired jackets, and the use of stripes referencing the Mediterranean and the designer's origins in southern France.
With this collection, Jacquemus seems to aim higher, aspiring to reach the haute couture level. Although it has not yet officially achieved this status, the creations and the format of the presentation indicate a transition to a higher position in the market. In recent years, the brand has been investing in high-end products to reinforce this perception.
The future of Jacquemus
Although the La Croisière collection brings a serious and sophisticated spirit, some may miss the laid-back touch that made Jacquemus a reference in fashion. It remains to be seen whether the brand will continue to evolve in this direction or if it will seek to balance luxury signs with the lightness that captivated the audience.
Regardless, the return to the official Paris Fashion Week calendar places Jacquemus back under the spotlight of the fashion world, reaffirming its role as one of the most influential names of its generation.\