Jean Paul Gaultier by Ludovic de Saint Sernin: Shipwreck and nostalgia in haute couture summer 2025
Since Jean Paul Gaultier retired in 2020, the brand has invited renowned talents to design its haute couture collections. For Summer 2025, the responsibility fell to Ludovic de Saint Sernin, who brought a unique interpretation of the Gaultier universe while paying tribute to the couturier's history with his modern and creative vision.
The show began with a tense and dramatic atmosphere, accompanied by a scream of terror in the background, followed by a curtain rising to reveal the central theme: the shipwreck. Gaultier's relationship with the sea dates back to the 80s when the couturier introduced the marienière look in his famous Boy Toy collection, inspired by sailors and the spirit of oceanic voyages. Ludovic de Saint Sernin, in referencing Gaultier, chose to revisit a specific 2008 collection marked by piracy and sea adventures.
Pirates, shipwrecks, and nautical elements
The show delved into the world of the sea, bringing bold and unexpected elements. Dresses shaped like anchors, accessories referencing caravels and steering wheels at the chest height were just a few of the tributes to Gaultier's famous pirate collection. The nautical setting was also highlighted by dresses embroidered to resemble sand, jodhpur pants paired with short jackets, and latex sets with a croc texture, a nod to the time Gaultier served as creative director at Hermès. Each piece exuded the feeling of an elegant yet visceral shipwreck.
Ludovic incorporated iconic Gaultier techniques such as pleating, twists, and knots, used in draped dresses and looks tied with ropes. The fusion of vintage style and contemporary innovation also appeared in surprising pieces, such as a long, shiny checkered dress paired with a fake ermine stole and a winged model with a micro leather thong, adding an aura of sensuality and irreverence to the show.
Corsets and contemporary experimentation
Ludovic de Saint Sernin, known for his experiments with corsets in his own brand, brought a more refined and subtle approach to the versions that appeared on the runway. Whether in the form of a body, structured blazer, or traditional corset, the pieces demonstrated how sensuality and structure can blend in a modern and understated way. The result was a collection that not only pays tribute to Gaultier but also paves the way for new possibilities in haute couture.
The feeling of a controlled shipwreck
Ludovic de Saint Sernin's show for Jean Paul Gaultier, although full of references to shipwrecks and the ocean, never lost control. The collection was a true dive into the depths of creativity, maintaining the legacy of the master Gaultier while offering a new perspective on the future of the maison's haute couture. The combination of drama, nostalgia, and innovation brought a wave of freshness to the brand, now guided by the talented hands of Saint Sernin.