Khaite Winter 2025: A tribute to David Lynch at NYFW
The brand Khaite, known for its refined and timeless aesthetic, took a bold step this season by presenting its Winter 2025 collection at NYFW as a tribute to the iconic filmmaker David Lynch. Catherine Holstein, the brand's founder and creative director, explored new visual narratives and techniques, resulting in the most daring collection of her career to date.
Retail expansion and the evolution of Khaite
The presentation came at a significant moment for the brand, as it continues expanding its retail presence. Following the opening of its second store in New York and its debut in California, expectations are high for at least three new locations by the end of 2025. With this expansion, Catherine Holstein has been attentively listening to her clientele and responding to demands for high-quality pieces and durable materials—something that was already evident in the Pre-Fall 2025 collection, presented a month earlier.
However, for Winter 2025, the designer wanted more than just meeting functional desires. She wanted to tell a story—and for that, she turned to the cinematic universe of David Lynch, who passed away in January this year.
David Lynch as inspiration: Cinematic and aesthetic references
The influence of Lynch begins with the setting. The golden runway evoked the yellow brick road from The Wizard of Oz (1939), one of the director's favorite films. In the garments, the use of leather and leopard print referenced the thriller Wild at Heart (1990). Meanwhile, the touches of 1940s elegance nodded to Humoresque (1947), another classic that shaped Lynch's aesthetic vision and inspired Holstein to explore a new approach to corsetry.
The reinterpretation of the corset was one of the show's highlights. Designed with an internal structure of elastic mesh, Khaite's corset balanced the aesthetics of a protective sculpture with the comfort needed by contemporary women. The idea of femininity proposed in the collection resonated with the construction of enigmatic and seductive characters often seen in Lynch's films.
The balance between sophistication and experimentation
Despite the bold thematic approach, Khaite remained true to its essence. The brand's DNA—rooted in high-quality wardrobe staples and sophisticated design—was still present but reimagined through textile experimentation.
Coats featured strikingly structured shoulders, while dresses boasted deep back necklines. Sensuality and power walked hand in hand, with fabric weaves strategically placed to subtly reveal glimpses of skin. The fusion of classic and unexpected elements also extended to the styling: a simple jeans-and-T-shirt ensemble took on a new dimension when paired with an ultra-plush cashmere corset.
Catherine Holstein has already established herself as a master of product design, but Winter 2025 proves she is more confident than ever in exploring new creative directions without compromising Khaite's identity. With this collection, the brand reaffirms its status in the American fashion landscape, while Holstein solidifies her position as one of today's most compelling designers.