Lanvin winter 2025: The debut of peter copping and the revival of Jeanne Lanvin's legacy
The night of january 26 marked a special moment in the paris men's fashion week: The debut of Peter Copping as Lanvin's creative director. However, what was presented on the runway goes far beyond the male universe. The show delivered a collection that not only celebrates the maison's heritage but also points to a new phase, marked by a blend of nostalgia and modernity.
Since Alber Elbaz's departure in 2015, Lanvin has faced challenges in regaining the prestige and relevance that the iconic designer rebuilt during his years leading the brand. Peter Copping takes on the role with the mission of reviving this essence while also steering the brand into the future.
Inspiration from jeanne lanvin's legacy
Peter Copping dove headfirst into the house's archives since his appointment in June 2024. He explored sketches, fabric samples, embroidery, and even the decor of Jeanne Lanvin's personal and professional spaces, the founder of the brand. This meticulous research work allowed him to reinterpret the brand's history authentically, without falling into the obvious or overly nostalgic tone.
On the runway, elements from the 1920s and 1930s appeared in elongated silhouettes, fringes, and geometric prints. Metallic embroideries and structured coats referred to the sophistication of the era, while dresses with soft volumes and draping evoked the unmistakable style of Jeanne Lanvin. However, Copping went beyond mere revisitation: he brought modernity with surprising details in the constructions and materials, in addition to blending masculine and feminine elements in a fluid manner.
Tribute to Alber Elbaz and a look at the present
The influence of Alber Elbaz, who led Lanvin from 2001 to 2015, was also present. The use of satin fabrics, the refined color palette, and an inclusive casting with older models were clear nods to the legacy of the designer who passed away in 2021. However, Copping balanced these references with a current and functional approach. The idea of a complete wardrobe, with familiar and comfortable pieces elevated by innovative details, gave the collection a contemporary appeal.
A promising future
Without resorting to exaggeration or theatrics, Peter Copping's debut at Lanvin was a success based on competence and experience. With stints at brands such as Louis Vuitton, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta, and Balenciaga, he showed that he has the necessary tools to guide Lanvin into a new era.
Now, we must wait for the next chapters of this story, which promises to solidify Lanvin as one of the great names in contemporary fashion, without ever losing sight of the legacy of its founder.