NYFW: Luar, winter 2025 – Raul Lopez reinterprets homophobia and xenophobia in a personal and impactful collection
Raul Lopez, the talented creative director and founder of the brand Luar, closed the fifth day of New York Fashion Week (NYFW) with a profound, emotional, and deeply meaningful collection. Following the grand performance of his previous show at Rockefeller Center—marked by a towering wall of speakers and Madonna in the front row—Lopez took a more introspective and personal approach for his Winter 2025 collection, titled "El Pato."
A story of overcoming and reinterpretation
The name of the collection is a reference to the homophobic expression "El Pato," commonly used in some Latin American countries, such as the Dominican Republic, the homeland of Lopez's family. This word carries a weight of prejudice, used to attack the masculinity of gay men, but for Raul Lopez, it also represents his own struggle against xenophobia and homophobia throughout his journey. Rather than taking on a melancholic tone, the designer transforms this pain into a powerful statement of resilience and empowerment.
On the runway, Luar 2025 translates Lopez's fight through strong and symbolic visual elements. White feathers, for instance, appear in large headpieces, belts, bags, jackets, and brooches that adorn blazers, creating an aura of elegance and, at the same time, resistance. Black plumes also become an extension of the body, infusing the show with a sense of strength and transformation. These choices are not merely decorative but tell a story of reclaiming oppression, turning pain into art.
Fashion and Cultural References
The collection also draws on cultural and fashion references that have shaped Lopez's journey. He takes inspiration from great fashion masters such as John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Christian Lacroix—figures that defined his youth and evolution in the industry. The glamorous makeup of the 1980s and oversized shoulder pads are reinterpreted, bringing back an era of excess and freedom. Leather jackets, another standout element of the collection, appear in various lengths and silhouettes, ranging from longer cuts to cropped styles, like the striking look worn by Joan Smalls to close the show.
Evolution in tailoring and innovative textures
Raul Lopez does not abandon his street identity, but in this Winter 2025 collection, he also invests in the evolution of his aesthetic, with refined wool tailoring that evokes sophistication without losing the urban edge that defines the brand. Coats with asymmetrical collars that expose the shoulder, barrel pants, and sculptural tops with bold, innovative shapes make up a collection that flirts with futurism while remaining anchored in references to his fashion icons.
The show was a true homage to the "patos" Lopez grew up admiring. In his evolution as a designer, he brings to the runway a collection that not only reinforces the quality of his brand but also opens a dialogue with his own history and experiences. By redefining the prejudices he faced, he creates a space of acceptance, representation, and freedom for all.