Prabal Gurung Winter 2025: A Personal Journey on the NYFW Runway
In the luxurious Surrogate's Court in Manhattan, a Beaux-Arts architectural gem that evokes the elegance of the early 20th century, Prabal Gurung presented his Winter 2025 collection during New York Fashion Week. The venue, where inheritance and wills are processed, served as a metaphor for the designer's chosen narrative: an intimate and personal reflection on his journey, inspired by his recently released memoir, Walk Like a Girl.
This time, Gurung moved away from purely aesthetic references and delved into his own story to create a show that celebrates freedom, security, and individuality—recurring themes in both his writing and his fashion.
"I want people to feel protected and safe," the designer stated before the presentation.
"It's like your best friend, lover, or partner wrapping you in an embrace."
Gurung's sensual tailoring
The collection maintained the sensual and refined signature of the Nepalese-born, U.S.-based designer but with an even more emotional touch. Tailoring appeared in cinched-waist blazers paired with impeccably cut trousers, evoking the minimalist elegance of the 1990s. The play on proportions stood out: while shoulders were structured, the waist featured soft curves, adding sophistication to the silhouette.
Cutout dresses strategically revealed glimpses of the body, balancing sensuality and mystery. Sheer fabrics appeared in delicate layers—sometimes fluid, sometimes contrasted with denser textures. Pleats and draping molded to the body, evoking a sense of movement and freedom, while oversized, plush coats reinforced the feeling of protection the designer aimed to convey.
Color palette: Between the classic and the vibrant
Color has always been a strong point in Gurung's work, and this season was no exception. Neutral tones like black, beige, and gray formed the foundation of the collection, punctuated by vibrant shades such as deep red, mint green, and electric blue. Blush pink also emerged as a key element, softening the palette and enhancing the collection's inherent delicacy.
The contrast between soft and saturated hues reinforced the duality that defines the designer's work: a balance between strength and delicacy, femininity and power, fluidity and structure.
Details that make the difference
In addition to the masterful use of fabrics and colors, the collection also shines in its details. Elements such as long fringes, iridescent embroidery, and sophisticated knits add textures and richness to the looks. The iconic evening dresses, a signature of the label, appeared in their full glory, especially the final look of the show—a black and white gown adorned with feathers, reminiscent of a bouquet of lilies.
Accessories also took center stage: thigh-high shearling boots, structured belts defining the waist, and statement earrings that complemented the powerful aesthetic of the collection.
A statement of confidence and identity
Even in challenging times for the fashion industry, Prabal Gurung reaffirms his commitment to authenticity and self-expression. His Winter 2025 collection is, above all, a reflection of the designer's personal journey, in which he found fashion as a way to tell his story and inspire others to do the same.
With a show that balances strength and vulnerability, Gurung proves once again that his fashion is more than just clothing – it is a declaration of identity.