Schiaparelli Haute Couture summer 2025: The past reinvented by Daniel Roseberry
In the world of haute couture, where creativity and technique come together in a sublime way, Daniel Roseberry, creative director of Schiaparelli, presents a collection that revives history to imagine an extravagant future. In a provocative statement sent to the press, Roseberry challenged contemporary conventions:
"I am so tired of everyone constantly equating modernity with simplicity. Can't the new also be elaborate, baroque, extravagant?"
This questioning translates into a collection that redefines modernity through artisanal luxury and opulence.
A journey through the decades
The inspiration for Summer 2025 came from an unusual discovery: a store of vintage ribbons from the 1920s and 1930s, produced in Lyon. During World War II, many of these materials were hidden and forgotten over time. Roseberry immersed himself in this universe to develop a palette of soft and nostalgic colors, such as buttery tones, pale greens, and burnt browns. These colors brought to life dresses that are true works of art, designed to be admired up close, as haute couture demands.
More than just revisiting the past, Roseberry studied masters like Madame Grès, Charles Frederick Worth, Paul Poiret, Yves Saint Laurent, and Alaïa. However, his intention was not to seek direct references, but to learn from the techniques of these pioneers to create something essentially new. This is the distinctive feature of his work: no matter how far he looks, everything he touches becomes unmistakably Schiaparelli.
Technique at the center of the stage
Unlike previous seasons, marked by details made to go viral, such as the taxidermy heads in 2023 or the robot baby in 2024, the Summer 2025 collection places technique and design at the forefront. The silhouettes, inspired by the last century, were reinvented with sculptural proportions, some made in silk georgette. Structured dresses play with architectural shapes and Art Deco curves, while necklines seem to float around the décolletage.
Coats appear in suede, embroidered with silk threads, and combined with bias-cut skirts that evoke the 1990s. Unexpected elements, such as feathers dipped in glycerin and combed with keratin, add a tactile dimension to the collection. Peplum-shaped tulles create a fascinating contrast between fluidity and rigidity, while double-padded bustiers offer a new approach to women's tailoring. Bows – the starting point of the collection – adorn the backs of skirts, connecting the past to the present with grace and sophistication.
The future of haute couture
By exploring what is old to create something new, Daniel Roseberry reaffirms his commitment to Schiaparelli's unique vision. This collection is a powerful statement that fashion can be complex, exuberant, and deeply meaningful – a true reflection of haute couture in its purest essence.
The Schiaparelli Summer 2025 is an invitation to reflection: is it possible to create the future without forgetting the lessons of the past? With this collection, the answer seems to be a resounding "yes."