Thom Browne winter 2025: Tailoring as an instrument of freedom
At the closing of New York Fashion Week, Thom Browne presented a collection that challenged conventions and explored the deconstruction of gender codes. With a theatrical and symbolic approach, the designer transformed classic tailoring into a platform for expression and freedom.
The presentation took place in a minimalist arena, where the center stage housed a cage containing a miniature of two imprisoned men. Around it, paper-folded birds appeared ready to take flight, while the soundtrack blended birdsong with the melancholic Little Bird by Ariella Glaser. The narrative was clear: gender roles, often confined by social norms, needed to be set free.
The reinvention of tailoring
The collection reaffirmed Thom Browne's DNA, known for his ability to deconstruct and reinvent tailoring. The designer played with proportions and cuts, cinching waists, broadening shoulders, and adding strategic volume at the back. The traditional gray palette was expanded to include shades of burgundy, military green, baby blue, and pink, reinforcing the fusion of traditionally masculine and feminine elements.
Pleated skirts appeared in unexpected combinations, with ties replacing conventional pleats. Basketball tank tops were transformed into fluid dresses, while American football shoulder pads were reinterpreted into knit sweaters. The patchwork brought a bold mix of Prince of Wales checks, Tartan, and Vichy, combined with sequin embroidery and applications of birds and microflowers.
The balance between strength and delicacy
The interplay between weight and lightness marked the collection. Structured coats coexisted with satin dresses, while military boots shared the space with shoes adorned with suede leggings. The layering of pieces revealed a detailed approach to textures and compositions, resulting in a sophisticated balance between tradition and innovation.
A powerful ending
In the final act, Browne presented a voluminous princess dress combined with a shiny blazer, closing the show with a clear message: fashion can – and should – be a space for freedom and authenticity. In a world where gender norms still dictate many rules, Thom Browne reaffirms his commitment to questioning, reinventing, and liberating.
With his winter 2025 collection, the designer not only dressed bodies but also challenged ideas, proving once again that tailoring can be a vehicle for individual expression and cultural transformation.