Valentino haute couture summer 2025: The Alessandro Michele era begins in grand style
The highly anticipated debut of Alessandro Michele as Valentino's creative director brought a theatrical spectacle to the Summer 2025 Haute Couture season. It was a show that blended fantasy and history, combining the designer's unmistakable style with the powerful legacy of Maison Valentino. The setting—a room transformed into a theater—reflected the essence of his vision: a fusion of technology, craftsmanship, and timeless narratives bursting with visual and emotional complexity.
The collection was titled Vertigineux, a nod to the sensation of confusion and disorientation. The entire ambiance contributed to evoking this idea: slanted bleachers, intermittent flashes of light, and dynamic signage projected in the background created an immersive atmosphere. At each seat, guests found a text written by Michele, exploring his fascination with lists, inspired by semiotician Umberto Eco. According to Michele, lists are an attempt to organize chaos, yet they also open pathways to infinity and vertigo—concepts that define the spirit of the collection.
Michele's language in haute couture
Alessandro Michele brought one of his most defining traits to Valentino: the juxtaposition of disparate elements. Each look featured an impressive array of references, from the masks of commedia dell'arte to medieval stained glass, spanning influences as broad as Mesopotamia and modernism. This multifaceted approach, combined with meticulous attention to craftsmanship, resulted in pieces that balanced history, fantasy, and innovation.
Although Michele was already known for his richness in detail, haute couture offered him total freedom to explore his creations in extreme proportions and complexities. The show featured dresses with monumental skirts, surreal masks, unexpected accessories, and constructions that seemed to emerge from another era. The meticulous handwork of the pieces underscored the contrast with prêt-à-porter, highlighting Valentino's commitment to the pinnacle of sartorial artistry.
A tribute to the past with an eye on the future
Amid the calculated chaos, Michele demonstrated respect for Valentino's DNA. Looks inspired by Valentino Garavani's iconic creations from the 60s, 70s, and 80s were brought to life anew, reimagined with the designer's extravagant and visionary touch. Examples such as models 12, 15, and 38 highlighted this harmonious connection between tradition and audacity, proving that the past and future can coexist in a powerful way.
The next chapter of Valentino
With this inaugural show, Alessandro Michele makes it clear that his vision for Valentino transcends fleeting trends. He builds a dialogue between history and fantasy, order and chaos, establishing a new identity for the maison. Vertigineux was not just a runway show; it was a statement of intent for a new era in haute couture – and all eyes are on Michele.